How is one to know where to eat in London when there's a new cuisine to explore at every corner, plus an extensive list of restaurants showered in critical acclaim? Well, what better culinary guide to show you than award-winning chef, Michel Roux Jr? In season two of his show, Roux Back Down the River, Michel embarks on a culinary journey down the Themes, paying a hungry visit to some must-visit London restaurants en route.
Where to Eat in Hammersmith, London
Reserving your dough instead of a table is certainly a fresh take on business, and one which Crisp Pizza have been forced to take due to unwavering demand. The elusive, crispy base has taken the city by storm, helping this local hotspot to become one a common answer to where to eat in Hammersmith. Michel paid a visit to discover the hype.
Crisp Pizza
The man behind the dough is Carl McCluskey, who prides himself upon serving charred, thin-crust pizzas with bold, tasty flavours. He first launched Crisp Pizza W6 in 2020, taking over his grandma’s pub, The Chancellors on Crisp Road. Today, the pub-come-pizza-joint has gained cult status, with hefty queues to prove it.
Michel opts for the bestseller, the Vecna, topped with spicy pepperoni, burrata and hot honey, and the Picante, a tequila sauce with marinara and pesto. Michel admits that the “taste of the dough is outstanding” which may be due to the fact that it's fermented three times in three days, which Carl believes it gives it deeper flavour.
Where to Eat in Battersea, London
At its peak, Battersea Power Station provided power to a fifth of the city. Since closing in 1983, the station remained unused for years and today, it fuels the city in a different way: with delicious, tasty food. With ample eateries to choose from all under one roof, deciding where to eat in London has never been easier. What better place for Michel to stop off on his tour of the Themes?
Roti Kin
Chef Sugen Gopal has been making layered flatbreads for over 30 years. Starting off in a small market in East Ham, he was crowned the 'Roti King' by a man from a neighbouring stall, and so the name stuck. Now, Roti King can be found in three locations around London- Euston, Waterloo, and Battersea.
When Michel popped into the Power Station to give this Malaysian cuisine a try, he opted for the Malaysian Mutton curry, a Hot Beef Randang, and a Yellow Lentil Dahl. Describing it as “food that makes him happy”, Michel was astounded by the "genius" behind the roti-making process, likening it to "the finest puff pastry”.
BAO
A dish originating in the North of Ancient China, brother and sister Shing and Wai Ting Chang brought Bao to London's food scene. Today, bao buns are a favourite amongst Londoners, with seven eateries across the city. The chefs at BAO use a cooking technique called Tanzhong, which allows the dough to hold more moisture, hence the fluffy, airy bun. The bestseller is the Classic Gua- an open bun filled with slow cooked pork belly, braised for 12 hours in a soy stock, with chilli cinnamon and star anise. Topped with fermented mustard greens and a peanut crumb, Michel describes his mouthful as “truly glorious”.
Where to Eat in Southwark, London
An area that once housed vinegar, pickle and relish factories, Southwark is now home to some of London finest restaurants. Michel stops by to discover Trivet, a restaurant showered in critical acclaim.
Trivet
If you watched season one of his show, you may recall Michel paying a visit to the 3 Michelin-starred Fat Duck restaurant in Bray, Berkshire. Three years ago, the executive head-chef Johnny Lake, opened Trivet with his partner, master sommelier Isa Bal. The team at Trivet will take a simple dish steeped in classic french tradition, and experiment with countless flavour and texture combinations until it evolves into something new. One such example is the dish served to Michel, Poulet au Vinaigre.
Chef Johnny Lake's version of this French staple involves eight processes over twenty-four hours. The result? A seared skin with a moist breast finished with mash, collard greens from a local farm and pickled shallot, dressed in a velvet vinegar sauce. According to Michel, it's “the juiciest chicken you’ve ever tasted”. The sauce is complex, yet refined, wonderfully bringing the dish together. Like many french classics, you don’t need much embellishment, as the complexity of flavours is simply “spellbinding”.
For an elegant sweet treat, Michel was served the ‘Hokkaido Potato’, a baked potato mille-feuille that has been on the menu since the restaurant opened, but in different forms. Today, it's served with a saké and white chocolate mousse, along with a butter and saké gelato that is creamy and rich but somehow cleanses the palette.
To conclude, the menu features their explorations of ingredients, dishes and drinks from regions around the world, inspired by the extraordinary culinary history and international diversity around us. The restaurant is showered in critical acclaim, known as one of the most exciting places to eat in London, and now has 2 Michelin stars to prove it.
Where to Eat in Greenwich, London
Inhabited since Roman times, Greenwich is the birth place of King Henry the 8th and his daughters and was once a gateway to the world. The River Themes has always helped to make it the most popular destination both to explore and to eat in London, for locals and tourists alike. However, there is one watering hole standing proudly by the riverside that holds a particular allure.
Tafalger Tavern
Opened in 1837, The Trafalger Tavern is the last remaining 'palace tavern', a large pub that came about in the industrial age. Today, it is a historic landmark, where the past lives on in the present, including the infamous whitebait dinners.
The whitebait was a dish regularly ordered by liberal MPs in the mid 1800's, who sailed down from houses of parliament to indulge in feasts of the most popular offerings at the time. Whitebait are small fish rolled in flour and cayenene pepper, then deep fried, and in Michel's opinion, "the perfect dish" to have by the river or sea. The Trafalger's version is just how Michel remembers, with bags of flavour, and lovely and crisp.
Where to Eat in London Re-Capped
To conclude, Michel has been living in London for forty-odd years now, and admits he's still discovering little nuggets of the city that excite him. Anyone who lives in London will know just what he means. Having set out to explore what culinary delights the south of the river has to offer, Roux Back Down the River will provide you with that coveted, local's insight into where to eat in London. No tourist-traps, just fine, wholesome food.
